"Perfect TC kit for all your tissue cultures. Everything you need is provided."
From tissue culture to thriving plant — the rot-proof way.
Self-watering propagation domes that take the guesswork out of acclimating rare plants. A sealed humidity dome for TC (tissue culture) plantlets, corms and props — vent it at your own pace as the plant hardens.
Four ways a TC plantlet or corm goes from promising to compost.
We built the dome around the four failures every grower fears — so you don't have to learn them the expensive way.
Rot from overwatering
Soggy medium suffocates a plantlet and turns it to mush — the most common way they die.
Roots starved of oxygen
Without airflow at the roots the substrate goes anaerobic and growth stalls before it starts.
Pot size matters
Reaching for a 3″ pot when a plantlet only needs a 2 oz cup surrounds fragile new roots with too much wet medium. It never dries out — and rot follows.
Humidity shock
Move a plant from 100% humidity to a dry room too fast and the leaves collapse overnight.
Accimation, Size & Consistency
Everything a young plant needs to wake up, root, and harden off — without daily watering or guesswork.
- 1
Aerated inner cup
Holds the plant and medium; the aeration well keeps oxygen at the roots so the substrate stays aerobic.
- 2
Wick from the reservoir
Draws steady moisture up to the medium — consistent hydration, never waterlogged.
- 3
Self-watering reservoir
Fill the water reservoir. The plant sips exactly what it needs, when it needs it — set it and forget it.
- 4
Sealed humidity dome
Holds ~100% humidity to break dormancy and protect fresh TC. Add a few airflow holes over 2–4 weeks to acclimate at your own pace.
Start your rarest plants with confidence.
$24.99
- Kit includes: 1 VlvtLEAF Bomber Dome — the complete self-watering cup + humidity dome system
- 1 bag of Fluvalite growing medium (Fluval + perlite blend)
- Squeeze water bottle for precise, mess-free reservoir refills
- Plantlet dipping solution for a clean, protected start
- Food-safe, BPA-free, reusable — works with soil, LECA or PON
Grown in a VlvtLEAF Bomber Dome.
Four steps from tissue culture to shelf.
No green thumb required. Seal it, fill it, and let the dome do the humidity work — then vent at your own pace.
Plant
Set your plantlet or corm in the aerated inner cup with your medium.
Fill
Pour water into the outer reservoir. The wick keeps moisture steady.
Seal
Close the dome to hold ~100% humidity and break dormancy.
Vent
Add a few airflow holes each week until your plant is ready for the room.
Store Front, live-streaming or running a nursery?
Buy VlvtLEAF Bomber Domes by the case at tiered pricing. Built for resellers, growers, streamers and TC labs.
Questions, answered.
What plants can I use for my VlvtLEAF Bomber Dome?
It's built for the delicate stages: tissue culture (TC) plantlets fresh out of the jar, dormant corms, small rehabs you're nursing back to health, and new propagations or cuttings. Anything that needs steady moisture, aeration, and a humid, stable start does well in it.
How often do I refill the reservoir?
The self-watering reservoir holds several days at a time. Top it up when it runs low — no daily watering, and no soggy medium.
Do I need to change the water in the VlvtLEAF Bomber Dome?
Yes — swap it out about once a week to keep it fresh. Clean water in the reservoir helps prevent algae and buildup.
When and how do I add airflow holes to acclimate?
Once your plant has rooted and pushed a leaf or two, begin venting. Add a couple of small holes to the dome, then a few more every few days over 2–4 weeks until it's comfortable at room humidity.
How do I burn vent holes safely?
Use a heated tool (a soldering iron or hot nail held with pliers) in a well-ventilated area, and let fumes clear before reopening near the plant. Prefer not to melt plastic? A small drill bit or a hole punch works too.
Can I use LECA, PON, or soil?
Yes — use Fluvalite (our Fluval + perlite blend), plugs, PON, or LECA. We don't recommend soil: it holds too much moisture, which invites the rot the dome is designed to prevent.
Do I need to peel my corm?
No, you don't have to — but if you do, gently scraping off the hard outer tunic removes a hydrophobic barrier so water can reach the corm, and it often wakes up faster. Be careful not to nick the growth point.
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