VlvtLEAF Bomber Dome
The self-watering propagation cup with a humidity dome — for tissue culture plantlets, cuttings, and dormant Alocasia corms.
What's included & specs
- Inner cup with aeration holes + synthetic fiber wick, water reservoir, and humidity dome
- Works with Fluvalite, PON, LECA, and propagation plugs
- Durable, reusable, BPA-free construction
- Built for tropical aroids, orchids & other TC-propagated species
You already know the fear. This solves it.
Rot from overwatering
The most common way corms and plantlets die. Guesswork with a watering can drowns delicate roots.
Roots starved of oxygen
Sitting in a wet medium suffocates roots. Without aeration, the substrate turns anaerobic and rots.
Humidity shock
Moved from ~100% humidity to a 40% living room too fast, leaves collapse before the cuticle can adjust.
One closed system that removes the daily decisions.
Inner cup with aeration holes
Holds the plant and medium while keeping roots oxygenated — an aerobic substrate that prevents rot.
Wick drawing from the reservoir
Delivers steady, measured moisture. No overwatering, no guesswork, no rot.
Water reservoir
Self-watering — fill it and walk away. Refill on your schedule, not the plant's.
Humidity dome
Maintains the high-humidity microclimate young plants need, then lifts off for a gradual transition to room conditions.
Engineered for the acclimation phase.
Built for the plants you're afraid to kill.
Tissue culture plantlets
Deflask and wean from sterile lab conditions to room air without collapse. Remove the dome for gradually longer intervals over 2–4 weeks.
Read the TC Acclimatization guide →
Alocasia corms
Give dormant corms the warm, humid, well-oxygenated environment they need to break dormancy — rot-free.
Read: Growing Alocasia from a corm →Four steps, then let it work.
Plant
Set your corm or plantlet in the aerated inner cup with your medium.
Fill
Top up the water reservoir. The wick handles the rest.
Close the dome
Trap warmth and humidity to trigger sprouting.
Acclimate gradually
Remove the dome for longer intervals as the plant adjusts to room air.
Grown in a VlvtLEAF Bomber Dome.
"Sprouted my first Frydek in 19 days, corm to leaf."
"Deflasked a whole flask with zero losses. The gradual acclimation is the difference."
"Finally stopped rotting corms. Fill it and forget it."
Store fronts, live streaming, or running a nursery?
Buy VlvtLEAF Bomber Domes by the case at tiered wholesale pricing. Apply once — approved buyers see net pricing at checkout.
Apply for wholesaleQuestions growers actually ask.
When do I remove the dome?
Keep the dome on while the plant establishes in high humidity. When it is ready to acclimate, remove the dome for short periods and gradually extend that time over 2–4 weeks until the plant adjusts to room conditions.
How often do I refill the reservoir?
The wick draws steady moisture from the water reservoir, so most growers top it up every 1–2 weeks depending on your environment. No daily watering, no guesswork.
Do I need to peel my corm?
Covered in our Growing Alocasia from a Corm guide. Short version: orientation and warmth matter more than peeling — the dome supplies the humidity and warmth to break dormancy.
Which growing media can I use?
The VlvtLEAF Bomber Dome works with Fluvalite, PON, LECA, and propagation plugs. The aeration system and wick help keep the root zone oxygenated and evenly moist.
Is it reusable?
Yes — durable, BPA-free construction built to run drop after drop.
Care tips & restock alerts.
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